INDONESIA - Buki Lewang experience

Wed 19/03/08Leave Medan at 4:30 after eventually finding a bank that would accept my Visa. Streets of Medan remind me of Vietnam insanity except scooters are replaced with cars with gigantic pot holes in the main roads - people love shouting out "Hey Mister" even if you're a girl, most people are hyper-friendly and fall over backwards to help if you look lost, or are trying to order food. Traveling with English Hairdresser friend Sarah, and Manchester Adam (who turns out to be a complete wanker and we ditch him later on, first time I met a fellow traveler I didn't like) We cram into a mini-bus taxi with 50 other locals all smiling at us heading to the bus terminal. On the bus we're pestered with locals selling all sorts of munchies and guitar playing teenage boys with bloodshot eyes buldging out of their heads, wearing rancid clothes and stinking like clove cigarettes. An hour after departure time - we leave. Crammed in like sardines; I've almost forgotten what personal space feels like - I'm sure it's very lonely though, I much prefer an old man rubbing up against my left side and old lady dueling on my right shoulder at all times :) We're off to Bukit Lawang - a national park and Orang Utan haven! We're promised to have close encounters with this man of the jungle, along with loads of other weird and wonderful creatures . We meet a nice guy on the bus who turns out to be a park guide - he seems very genuine and shows us his glowing CV full of recommendations from happy tourists he has shown around. We are charmed and sign up for a two day trek with our new buddy. We arrive after dark in the tiny riverside town of Bucket Lawang. Tiny guest houses dot the hill side along the river, their colourful lights glow warmly and welcoming for us. We all let out a big sigh - happy to off the bus and out of Medan. Next day we leave at 9am with new guide Endra, within a couple of minutes we bump into a gang of Thommas monkeys. These cool guys look like moheakened punk rockers and they entertain us with their high flying stunts through the canopy. Everyone is buzzing after having seen some wild life so soon into the trek. We march on in search for the infamous Orang-Utan past Cacao trees, Rubber plantations and Palm sugar trees. We spot some mischievous Marques monkeys with cheeky eyes and rapid movements.Then we spot her - about 6 years old in all her fiery red glory. An Orang-Utan slowly gliding through the jungle ahead of us, with silky smooth movement. She grabs hold of one branch with two feet and sways to the next effortlessly. She is an incredible sight to behold and I loose my breath as she comes close- within a meter of myself and stares into my eyes with equal curiosity, but with an air of superiority. Soon enough the mother swoops down with a tiny fur ball baby about 1 month old attached under her belly, it's eyes tightly closed but a vice-like grip on her mother. We are all mesmerized by this gentle giant of the jungle. Then as quickly and quietly as they arrived they swing off deeper into the jungle. All of us left feeling deeply privileged to have seen these wild creatures in their native habitat. Later on we bump into two more Oran-Utans who we are warned are semi-wild having grown up as pets illegally with humans. One of them, called Jackie, jumps down onto the ground as soon as she spots us and runs over, giant arms held high above her head, straight for us! She grabs my left arm with incredible strength I'm sure she could rip it out at any second - I'm terrified. Then she turns and jumps up on me, wrapping her arms tightly around my neck, and feet resting on my thighs. My fear melts, she just wants a hug! I close my own arms around her and give her a squeeze! Mind not really fully comprehending what is happening, the others in the group gasp, snapping a few photos. The guide throws a banana and Jackie jumps off me in pursuit. Then I realise the scoop - she was only holding me ransom until she got her banana! I'm buzzing from the close contact, but feel slightly used! A little further on we're accosted by a gang of gibbons, coal black and looking curious. The leader rushes toward us in typical monkey fashion, awkward steps arms above his head. I've left my bag on the ground to snap some pics and before I know it this big gibbon has firm grip on it, hoping for some food inside! I can see my passport, clothes, visa, ipod being swept up into the jungle never to be seen again! I make a dive for the bag strap and so begins the tug of war between me and the gibbon. The battle of strength begins, my heart racing as the gibbon snarls, flashing it's sharp teeth, eyes ablaze! I hear a tearing sound from my bag - this could all end in disaster with my self ripped to shreds and bag lost forever. Then the guide steps in with a big stick, thrashing it across a nearby tree and the gibbons surrenders. Phew - the tear in my bag forever a reminder of my near death experience with the gibbons of Bukit Lawang. To Be continued.....